Welcome to the fourth installment of WINE CRUSH,
a bi-monthly-ish newsletter.
This space is for the viticulture geeks, cellar rats and glass swirlers.
Read on as Jason Bise and Kelly McGrath share their thoughts on seasonal wine trends, ancient grapes, and mystical producers.
by Kelly McGrath
Wine is ingrained into the cultural history of pretty much every country in Europe.
If you love wine, you love history and vice versa - few places can rival the diverse history of Sicily.
Colonized and fought over throughout its history, Sicily is the melting pot, defined. Agriculture, food, landscape, architecture, and the arts all reflect the wonderfully disparate cultures that once called this coveted island home. Mythology and mystery carry stories of hardship and glory from the ancient past, casting a magic spell over anyone that sets foot on Sicily’s soil. Its appeal is unparalleled, no one returns from Sicily unmoved. It is its own continent, an idea, a land full of passion and heart. You will find this for yourself as we explore it’s producers and the love they share in every bottle we enjoy.
Sicily is Italy's southernmost region, and the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. For more than 2500 years Sicily has been a significant center of Mediterranean viticulture, although the reputation and style of its wines has changed significantly over that time. The island was once most famous for sweet Muscats, and later, fortified Marsala.
Today many of SiCILY’s best-known wines are dry table wines produced under the regional IGT title Terre Siciliane, or the Sicilia DOC.
You will find great plains and extensive hillsides with excellent exposures to the abundant sunlight.
The geological community recognizes 12 orders of soil, and Sicily has seven of them.
This really is a playground for top quality winemakers to explore. Recent focus on local grapes such as Nero D’Avola, Frappato, Catarratto, and Nerello Mascalese has blossomed and led to some of the most exciting and surprising wine experiences to come out of Italy for decades!
That sunlight and the range of hot days and cool nights mean long and reliable ripening periods across the island leading to full-flavored and elegant wines, especially in the increasingly prized vineyards on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. Mount Etna is one of the world's most active volcanoes and is in an almost constant state of activity. The fertile volcanic soils support extensive agriculture, with vineyards and orchards spread across the lower slopes of the mountain and the broad Plain of Catania to the south.With vineyards dotted across the north, east, and south-facing slopes of this 3300m high volcano, you would think there’s space for everyone. But with prices for land now a staggering 150,000 euros per hectare, it only goes to show how many want to be there, and how premium the future is for such a sought after area.
Winemaker’s of Sicily
OCCHIPINTI
Arianna Occhipinti is a female winemaker and pioneer of biodynamic viticulture. Her love for wine was sparked at age of 16 when she attended Vinitaly with her uncle (Giusto Occhipinti of COS). It prompted her to study oenology at university in Milan. There, she was distressed to find the emphasis on chemistry and laboratory work, at odds with the more natural winemaking she had learned from her uncle. This wasn’t what had prompted her to fall in love with wine. For her, it was about farming: the vines. In her early 20s, she began making wines in her home area of Vittoria, Sicily.
Frappato amazed her: a grape capable of making floral, elegant reds, so different from the big, ripe overpowering Nero d’Avolas that had so far defined Sicilian wine. She decided her style would be one of finesse and elegance and perfume over power. Her first vintage (2004) was released in 2006 when she was just 24. At the time she was working with just one hectare of abandoned vines. Arianna now owns 23.5 hectares of vineyards in the southeast of Sicily, near Vittoria. Here she works the beautiful land of limestone and sandy soils at around 300 metres in altitude. It’s in complete contrast to Mount Etna further north; flattish land where grapes are just one of the many fruits, and vegetables are grown – polytunnels seem as familiar as vineyards. However, it’s also arguably where the Frappato variety originates and reaches its zenith, while the local Nero d’Avola is also particularly suited.
Arianna Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso Frappato 2019 $49.95
Her 2019 Frappato comes from 40 year old vines. It is made with native yeasts, unfiltered, unfined, no added sulfites. It's the perfect balance between rustic terroir and elegance. It's widely aromatic burning with flowers, minerals, and raspberries. The palate is juicy with fine tannin and vibrant acidity. This wine has potential to be a magical pairing with a wide variety of foods so play around and let us know what you discover! Don't be afraid to throw a tiny chill on your bottle when pairing with lighter fare.
COS
COS Farm was founded in 1980 by three friends: Giambattista Cilia, Cirino Strano and Giusto Occhipinti. The acronym of their surnames (Cilia-Occhipinti-Strano) gives rise to the name of the company. They became the youngest winemakers in Italy when they bought Joseph Cilia’s old family winery in 1980. The company follows the principles of biodynamic viticulture to help the vineyard find and maintain balance in harmony with nature and to make the wine express the depth of the character of its soils. Biodynamic agriculture is a cultivation method based on the vision of the philosopher Rudolf Steiner which incorporates the idea of organic farming and invites, with a holistic approach, to consider the soil and the life that develops on it. With this in mind, and with a critical spirit that adapts the principles of biodynamics to the teachings of a millenary tradition, COS cultivates its vines with pruning techniques that best respect the vine and the grapes. Biodynamic agriculture means respect, it means not asking for more than nature is able to offer.
It is for this reason that at COS we have developed projects that concern the phytodepuration of cellar wastewater and the composting of pruning residues, through a method of creating compost that does not use chemicals or artificial preparations. For us, biodynamics is not a fashion, but wisdom that comes from respect, from the passion for work, from the love of life.
This company and the intuition of these three friends catapulted the rebirth of the Vittoria area and its extraordinary wines.
COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 'delle Fontane' 2014 $59.95
This Frappato and Nero d’Avola blend comes from the best sites of Fontane in Vittoria. Fermentation begins in concrete followed by aging in Slavonian oak for two years, and then another 2 to 3 years in bottle before it’s released. This wine is meant for the cellar, though can also be enjoyed now with all manner of Mediterranean cuisine.
COS Rami Bianco 2020 $32.95
Rami is a 50/50 blend of Insolia and Grecanico; it is an “orange” wine, meaning the skins have been left in contact with the juice for an extended period of time. It has great aromas of citrus fruit and hints of minerality with excellent depth of flavor and is well balanced, with good acidity and a pleasant finish.
FLAVIA
Giacomo and Flavia, two young wine producers of the fourth generation of the historic Rallo family are interpreting the values of Giacomo’s great grandfather—spreading the culture of good wine and quality products of their territory by completely dedicating themselves to the creation of native Sicilian wines. The passion for work, excellent intuition and commitment have led to the production of natural wines, unfiltered and with very low sulphite contents. These wines, with their lively freshness, come from the historic vineyards owned by the Rallo family since 1860. They are located between Contrada Birgi and Paolini, a stone’s throw from the Riserva dello Stagnone and the historic Marsala salt pans. The presence of the sea contributes to the creation of soils rich in minerals and with high sapidity—characteristics that give life to unique wines with Sicilian flavors and aromas.
The choice to work organically is an effective choice for the well-being of each individual but also for the planet, the sustainable choice is a direct vote for the health and hope of the generations to come. Their main objective is not to achieve high production levels, but to maintain and increase the levels of organic matter in the soils by completely eliminating the supply of fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides to fight parasites (insects, mites, etc .) and pathogens (fungi, bacteria, viruses). Their organic production method therefore has a dual function: to respond to the demand from consumers for healthy and safe wines; on the other hand, to produce natural wines that contribute to environmental protection, animal welfare and rural development.
Flavia Taille Frappato Perricone 2020 $25.95
Elegant and delicate, Flavia Taillè Frappato Perricone is produced with 50% Frappato and 50% Perricone, from the historic vineyards owned by the Rallo family since 1860. The maturation in Slavonian oak tonneau and the refinement in the bottle personalize the greatness of this wine, well structured and endowed with elegance and intense aromas. The Taillè Frappato Perricone has a deep ruby red color with purple reflections. From the fruity bouquet emerge hints of cherry, blackberry, sarsaparilla and plum delicately linked to notes of cloves, olive compote and licorice. On the palate an excellent freshness, soft and fruity complemented by an enveloping complexity.
TENUTA TASCANTE
The Tasca d'Almerita family, one of Sicily's oldest and most esteemed wine families, is now led by seventh generation Alberto Tasca. The family has been making wine across Sicily for over 200 years and currently owns four parcels, located in the contrade of Pianodario and Sciaranova in Randazzo, and Rampante and Grasà in Castiglione. (A contrada is a small subdivision of a commune, based on various defining criteria such as elevation, cultural/historical significance, or the age of past lava flows.) The vineyards are mostly at elevations of 2,450 to 2,600 feet (750–800 meters) on the 11,000-foot mountain. All are certified as sustainable under SOStain, a Sicilian-based program that rates wineries and vineyards based on their impact on the environment, in conjunction with the Italian Ministry of the Environment’s VIVA indicators of sustainability.
Tascante 'BUONORA' Etna Bianco 2020 $21.95
Pale blush of pink with a very fine and persistent perlage. Notes of white flowers, hawthorn, red apple peel, wild strawberry and aromas and flavors of raspberry. Great acidity and fresh, persistent and delicate aftertaste 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara
Tenuta Tascante 'Contrada Rampante' 2016 $53.95
Made with vines planted at the dawn of the new millennium, the 2016 Etna Rosso Contrada Rampante comes from one of the best-performing parcels on the northern side of the volcano, where the topsoil (consisting of eroded volcanic stone and compacted ash) is a bit thicker and deeper compared to most other sites on the volcano. This allows for deep root systems and well-draining moisture. This wine shows a dark and compact nature with ripe fruit, dried blackberry, aniseed and camphor. Like the other wines in this series, this expression ages in 25-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks for 12 months. Some 5,000 bottles were made.
Tasca d'Almerita 'Lamuri' Nero d'Avola 2016 $16.95
Lamuri means "love" in the Sicilian dialect, and there's a lot to love about this wine. 100% Nero d'Avola grown in sandy soils, this definitely shows the more elegant side of Nero d'Avola. Don't get me wrong, there's plenty of body and intensity here, but it's also a very pretty wine. All grapes are hand harvested and after fermentation, the wine is aged for 3-6 months in new and older French oak barrels. The finished wine is very appealing and attractive. Intensely ruby-red in color, Lamuri offers lush aromas of black cherry, black fruits, vanilla, tobacco, and wild herbs. On the palate, velvety tannins and refreshing acidity make for an elegant, expressive, crowd-pleasing wine.
BENANTI
When Dr. Giuseppe Benanti started making wine from his family’s winery and estate vineyards in the late 1980s, there were less than 10 producers in Etna. Dr. Benanti’s goal was to resurrect the winemaking customs of his family from the late 1800s, producing wine primarily from the native varieties on Mt. Etna. His early work in the DOC helped bring attention to the amazing terroirs of Mt. Etna. The Etna DOC is a semicircle to the north, east and south around the active volcano. The Benanti estate is located in the southern part of the Etna DOC in Viagrande. They produce wine from their estate vineyards as well as work closely with growers in the north and east on Mt. Etna. Today, Giuseppe’s sons Antonio and Salvino are enthusiastically committed to keeping the Benanti classic and elegant Etna wines at the forefront of the appellation.
Benanti Etna Bianco 2019 $29.95
Carricante is an indigenous Sicilian white grape variety that is most notably found on Mount Etna. The variety is known for its marked acidity and high yields, which gave rise to its name (carica means "load" in Italian). The best examples come from vines grown in volcanic soils. Carricante is the key grape behind white wines made under the Etna Bianco DOC title. It is required in all of the denomination's white wines: 60 percent minimum in the standard Etna Bianco and 80 percent in Etna Bianco Superiore. Carricante produces a white wine with great aging potential.